Coastal Hydrodynamics And Sediment Processes

This course discusses the hydrodynamics of the coastal environment and reviews waves, low-frequency motions, and coastal responses, including sediment processes and beach evolution. Specific topics to be covered include: review of linear wave theory; introduction to nonlinear waves; wave-averaged motions and radiation stresses; wave and current boundary layers; wave setup, longshore current, rip current, undertow, and nearshore circulation; wave dissipation mechanisms; and fluid-sediment interaction. An introduction to cohesive sediments, sediment concentration and transport models, and beach morphology will also be addressed.